We lunched in Ende at the restaurant of
Abdullaye’s ‘little’ brother Aly. He was taller and also looked older
than Abdullaye but they both swore he was the younger of the two. While
we waited for our lunch, still sweltering ¬- even in the shade - a group
of French people arrived. They turned out to be from an association of
dispensers of medicine. They go to Mali periodically as volunteers to
give medicine directly to the poor villagers. UNICEF ought to follow
their example.
After our simple lunch of rice with a tasty gombo sauce, we took a short
siesta on some rather uncomfortable bamboo chaises-longues and then
headed for the Sunday market. This was without a doubt the most
colourful market that we’d ever seen, thanks chiefly to the women’s
clothes. They all looked so smart and Abdullaye confirmed that they wear
their very best dresses to market. And all the products are carried to
the market for several kilometres in the baking sun on top of the
women’s heads.
The ‘Case à palabrer’ is a low shelter where
the elders meet to discuss village affairs, no doubt while chewing on
some kola nuts to keep the conversation flowing. The one in Ende had
beautifully carved pillars by a local artist.
We knew before coming that there is a 900 meter airstrip at Bandiagara
but, since we had to carry so much fuel to make it as far as Lomé
(Togo), taking off from such a relatively short strip was marginal. We
stopped at the strip on our way back from Ende to Bandiagara to find it
occupied by cows and goats, bushes and large stones. As far as we can
gather, the last person to use it was a Swiss friend of Jean Bastian who
flew in with an ultra-light a few years ago. However, Jean Bastian says
that, another time, he could have the runway cleared of stones and
bushes if he were given advance notice of our arrival.
|