We had a long
flight ahead of us so we rose early again and took a taxi to the airport.
The landing fee was similar to that in Aqaba, US$ 72, but at least
they didn't make us pay a handling fee this time. Customs took some time, while the
customs officials kept checking and re-checking our passports. When we went through
the security check, they found Ray's Swiss army knife and we had to reassure them that we
were only three on board and trusted him implicitly.
Right now we are cruising at FL150 (15'000 feet) over Saudi Arabia
on our way to Bahrain. This is the minimum flight level authorized. We were
heavy with 3 on board and more than 10 hours of fuel on board. The high outside air
temperature of +4 degrees results in a density altitude of FL171, but thanks to all the
speed kits Honey Mooney just made it with only +150 feet/minute climb rate the last couple
of thousands of feet.
We are all using cannula oxygen feeds which are more economical on
the oxygen than the traditional masks. They also have the advantage of allowing us
to eat, as the feeds consist of just a couple of tubes up one's nose. Outside the
window is a desolate landscape of desert and more desert, occasionally punctuated by hills
and a small town. We often see green circles of irrigated land, presumably that
shape because the irrigation is done with a circular spray.
We have had a slight headwind in the beginning so estimated flight
time to Bahrain looks like being about 7 hours (half an hour extra). Writing this
has helped pass the time, although it is a little cramped, with the laptop on my lap and
mouse balanced on a book that just fits between the computer and the wall of the plane.
Many times since we left Geneva, we heard aircrafts on the control
frequencies with call sign 'REACH' followed by a flight code. Their crew always had an
American accent so we suspected that they were US Air Force planes associated with the
Afghanistan war operations. Shortly after entering Bahrain FIR (Flight Information Region)
we lost radio contact with Jeddah control. A friendly American on board 'REACH0906Y'
successfully relayed our position information to both Jeddah and Bahrain control.
After writing the last paragraph, it was time to start the descent
to Bahrain which was in a haze at sunset. Bahrain airport was just as opulent as I
had expected. We were met by an efficient handling agent who drove us to the
terminal and took us through customs formalities. Flemming and Ray were wearing
their captain's shirts and, as crew, didn't need the visa that Ray had acquired for us all
in Geneva. Only I, as passenger, needed mine. I was carrying the Tupperware
container that I use as a potty on board and was unable to access a toilet to empty the
contents before the security check. I was reluctant to place it on the conveyor belt
in case it turned over and leaked. The security guard asked to view the contents and
I asked him if he was sure as I didn't think he would appreciate the smell. He
didn't insist after that!
Formalities over, we were shown to a desk where they make hotel
bookings. We didn't have a Lonely Planet guide to cover Bahrain, so I just said we
wanted a mid-range hotel. The hotel had its own shuttle service, but it was
apparently busy so they paid for a taxi. All seemed well until the taxi driver shook
his head en route and murmured about what a bad hotel we were going to. He pointed
out a much better alternative, according to him. We reckoned that this hotel paid
him a commission so didn't believe him. I thought we could always decide on arrival
at the hotel.
At reception, I gradually took in the shabbiness of the
furnishings, but the men were already filling out the forms and the hotel desk manager had
already paid off the taxi driver. We were all tired from our long flight, so I
shrugged my shoulders thinking "it's only for one night". We took the lift
up to our floor and as we stepped out, our nostrils were greeted by a sickly smell of
disinfectant. The smell in our room was different, but no better. We
tried opening the window, but that only contributed cooking smells from some cheap
eatery. The bathroom was no better. The towels were grey and the one large
towel was in tatters. And the bath was dirty. I decided that I would skip a shower
and just freshen up using the loo paper as a towel. Our bedroom had two single
beds. We checked the sheets. One of them had a stain on it, so we preferred to
share the other one and just pray there would be no bed bugs.
Of course, all this time I was wishing I had insisted on changing
hotels. Ray, on the other hand, was delighted with his room. It had a huge circular
bed! In a good mood, he invited us for a beer at the pub next door and we downed
some good Aussie Fosters beer. We repeated the order when we were told it was Happy
Hour.
Ray decided to skip dinner, so Flemming and I went in search of
somewhere nice to make up for the ghastly dive we'd found ourselves in. (We didn't
think the hotel receptionist could be relied upon to give us a good
recommendation.). Safe bets seemed to be either MacDonalds (which I tend to boycott)
or the Intercontinental Hotel. We chose the latter. The buffet meal wasn't
brilliant, considering the price, but we were entertained from our window seats by the
activity in the huge lobby below. Apart from some oriental (Thai?) air hostesses in
red uniform, the lobby seemed to be a hive of activity for business men - some dressed in
suits, others in immaculate long white robes and white headdress. The men kissed
each other on the cheek 4 or 5 times - cheeky sheiks, as Flemming calls them! Then
we spotted a gracious young couple, walking up and down the stairs several times, for God
knows what reason. He was in Jordanian attire with a red striped headdress. She was
dressed in black from head to foot with just two slits to see out from.
After the meal we walked back to the hotel and went to bed.
We slept well until we were woken at 2 am by the phone ringing. I answered the
phone, but there was no one at the other end. I just heard someone replace the
receiver. This morning Ray told us he not only got mysterious phone calls - he was
also visited in the night. When he heard knocking on the door, his first thought was
"What the hell does Flemming want at this hour?'". He rushed out of bed
stark naked to answer the door, thinking it must be an emergency. Fortunately for his
innocence, although he had forgotten to lock the door, he had closed the latch, so the
door only opened slightly. Enough to see that there were several young ladies trying
to gain access to his room. No doubt they wanted to "try out" his circular
bed!
Adhari is the name of the hotel we stayed in, to be avoided if you
ever happen to pass through Bahrain. I was relieved to get shot of the place as we
drove to the airport Monday morning. |